Frequently asked questions

Autumn is the sweet spot for most of the country. The soil is still warm from summer, the rain is coming, and plants get a full winter and spring to put roots down before they have to cope with dry weather. Winter planting works fine for deciduous trees and hardy natives, and spring is good in colder regions where heavy frosts can knock young plants around. The main time to avoid is the middle of summer, when new plants need constant watering just to survive.

Start with the conditions, not the plant. Watch where the sun falls through the day, where the wind comes from, and whether the ground stays wet after rain. A plant that suits your soil and exposure will outgrow a struggling favourite every time. Bring a few photos of the spot and a rough idea of the size you want at maturity, and a good nursery can shortlist plants that will actually thrive there instead of just look good on the trolley.

For the first summer, a deep soak once or twice a week beats a light sprinkle every day. Deep watering pushes roots down where the moisture holds, while daily splashes keep roots near the surface where they cook. Check by pushing a finger into the soil beside the root ball; if it is dry at knuckle depth, water. After the first year most well chosen trees and shrubs only need help through long dry spells.

Smaller plants usually catch up, and often overtake. A healthy plant in a smaller grade establishes faster because its roots adjust to your soil quickly, while a large specimen can sulk for a season or two. Big grades earn their keep where you need instant screening or a feature tree straight away. If you are planting a hedge or a shelter belt, smaller grades planted well and watered properly are the better spend.

Most natives are light feeders and do well with a layer of compost at planting and a general slow release fertiliser in spring. Go easy on the amounts; heavy feeding pushes soft leafy growth that wind and frost damage. A few groups, like pittosporums and coprosmas under regular trimming, appreciate a bit more. Mulching every year does more for natives than any bag of fertiliser, because it feeds the soil and holds moisture through summer.

Know which of your plants are tender, and cover them on clear still nights when frost is forecast. Frost cloth over a couple of stakes works well; even an old sheet helps, as long as it is off the foliage and removed in the morning. Water the ground the evening before a frost, since moist soil holds more warmth than dry soil. Hold off pruning frost damage until spring, because the burnt outer growth protects the live wood underneath.

Yes, and plenty of good gardens grow on clay, but preparation matters. Dig a wide hole rather than a deep one, break up the sides so roots can get out, and mix compost through the backfill instead of filling the hole with pure potting mix. On ground that stays wet, plant slightly proud of the surface and mound soil up to the root ball so water drains away from the stem. Gypsum worked in over a season or two will gradually open the clay up.

Some transplant stress is normal in the first few weeks, especially in warm weather, and a plant will often shed a few leaves while its roots settle in. Ongoing browning usually comes back to water: either too little in a dry spot or too much in poorly drained ground. Check the soil before reaching for sprays. Wind burn and reflected heat off walls and fences brown foliage too, so a temporary windbreak or a shift for potted plants can be the simple fix.